A Whirlwind Weekend in Khajuraho: Temples, Tigers, and Everything In Between
Traveling with family is an adventure in itself — equal parts laughter, chaos, and existential questioning of why you even planned this trip in the first place. My recent weekend getaway to Khajuraho, complete with temples, tigers, and my parents’ quirks, was no exception. If you’re planning a similar trip, buckle up — this blog has it all.
Day 1: Road Trip Shenanigans — Jabalpur to Khajuraho
The Delayed Start
Our journey began with a hiccup: Ajay, our driver, showed up nearly an hour late. A driver’s demeanor can make or break a road trip, so my expectations were already on the floor. But Ajay, donning the seatbelt like a responsible adult (and helping Papa with his seatbelt), quickly redeemed himself.
We packed our bags, loaded the XUV700, and set off. Mammi had packed enough parathas and bhindi to feed a small army. Papa, meanwhile, treated us to nostalgia-packed stories about his early days near Katni, working as a doctor at a bidi factory, driving his Maruti to meet Mom in Rewa, and staying in Dharmshalas for ₹5 back in 1986.
The Drive
The highways were smooth — so smooth that they lulled us into a false sense of calm before we hit the red-dusty, pothole-ridden roads near Amanganj. It felt like driving on Mars, except with more cow dung. A chai-sandwich break at Katni, a few laughs, and some existential musings later, we finally reached Khajuraho’s Lalit Temple View Hotel by 3 PM.
After a quick home-packed lunch (because Mammi’s food trumps overpriced hotel meals any day), I went rogue and explored the Archaeological Museum solo. It was worth the ₹40 entry fee, even if the dusty mannequins made me feel like I was walking through an Indiana Jones set.
Temple-Hopping Begins: The Eastern Group
We hit the Eastern Group of Temples at 4 PM, weaving through dusty roads and cows that seemed to rule the area. Papa was already lamenting the lack of government maintenance, which he’d go on to mention approximately 15 more times during the trip.
- Javari Temple (11th century)
The Javari Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is a small yet beautifully crafted shrine in the Eastern Group of Temples at Khajuraho. Built around the 11th century, the temple features a distinctive spire (शिखर) with a graceful, compact design. Its entrance is adorned with a finely carved arch (तोरण), and the sanctum houses a damaged idol of Vishnu. The temple’s exterior walls are adorned with carvings of celestial nymphs and intricate ornamental details, showcasing the refined artistry of the Chandela period.
- Vamana Temple (11th century)
The Vamana Temple is dedicated to Vamana, the dwarf incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Located in a serene setting amidst lush fields, this 11th-century temple exemplifies the Nagara style of architecture with its ornate carvings and harmonious proportions. The temple features a shikhara that rises elegantly above the sanctum and walls adorned with exquisite sculptures of apsaras, deities, and mythical creatures. The depictions of Vamana’s legendary act of reclaiming the universe from the demon king Bali make this temple a remarkable narrative of Vishnu’s divine interventions.
- Brahma Temple (9–10th century)
The Brahma Temple, despite its name, is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is one of the oldest temples in Khajuraho, constructed around the 9th or 10th century. This modest temple is built predominantly of granite, which is unusual for Khajuraho, as most temples are constructed from sandstone. The sanctum contains a four-faced (चतुर्मुख) idol, often misidentified with Brahma but believed to represent Vishnu. The temple’s simplicity and use of granite distinguish it from other temples in the region.
Evening Aarti and the Tribal Musuem
Matangeshwar Temple: By 6 PM, we made our way to temple for the evening aarti. Papa held the shoes while we went inside. This 9th-century Shiva temple is still operational, and the massive Shivalinga is said to grow a few inches every year (cue a skeptical eyebrow raise).
We had some Kulhad Chai and chatted with a Quebecois expat who’d lived in Khajuraho since COVID. Papa thought Quebec was Kuwait, and talked to him about Middle East the whole time. Clearly, he was confused.
As we headed back, I accidentally discovered the Aadivart Tribal Museum — a gem showcasing the life of Central India’s indigenous tribes. Don’t miss this one, folks.
We ended the day with a delicious dinner at the hotel restaurant. I tried to settle the bill, but Papa, with impressive swiftness, snatched the card out of my hand. It seems like parents will always insist on picking up the tab!
Day 2: Temple Trail and Into the Wild
Morning Walk Therapy
Thanks to Dad’s snoring, I was up by 3:30 AM. Mom and I took a morning walk around a nearby pond (ताल). She said her walks help her remember trips better, and I decided to make these walks a tradition.
Western Group of Temples
After the hearty hotel breakfast, we explored the Western Group of Temples with Mr. Dubey, a guide who was equal parts knowledgeable and fast-talking. From the stunning Kandariya Mahadev Temple (with its intricate erotic sculptures) to the simpler Nandi Shrine, we marveled at the Chandela dynasty’s architectural prowess.
The Western Group of Temples is the largest and most renowned cluster of temples in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Khajuraho. These temples, built between the 10th and 12th centuries by the Chandela dynasty, are celebrated for their stunning Nagara-style architecture and intricate sculptures that depict themes of spirituality, mythology, and daily life. The temples’ harmonious blend of art and architecture exemplifies India’s rich cultural heritage and are a testament to the Chandela rulers’ devotion and artistic vision.
Sharing some beautiful pictures and facts from the Western Group of Temples:
- Varaha Temple (CE 900–925)
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu’s boar incarnation, Varaha, the Temple is a relatively small shrine built on a raised platform, showcasing a massive monolithic sculpture of Varaha. Carved from sandstone, this statue is adorned with intricate carvings of nearly 700 miniature deities and mythological figures, highlighting the Chandelas’ mastery in stone art.
- Lakshamana Temple (CE 930–950)
One of the oldest and best-preserved temples in Khajuraho, the Lakshmana Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It features a central sanctum (गर्भगृह) surrounded by four subsidiary shrines, symbolizing a Panchayatana layout. The temple’s exterior and interior walls are adorned with elaborate carvings, including depictions of gods, celestial beings, and scenes from everyday life. Its beautifully proportioned spire (शिखर) is an early example of the mature Nagara style.
- Kandariya Mahadev Temple (CE 1025–50)
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Kandariya Mahadev Temple is the largest and most spectacular temple in the Khajuraho complex. It epitomizes the zenith of Chandela architectural and artistic achievements. The temple is renowned for its soaring shikhara, which symbolizes Mount Kailash, Shiva’s heavenly abode. Its walls are intricately adorned with over 800 sculptures, including celestial nymphs, deities, and sensuous human figures, showcasing a celebration of life and spirituality.
- Pratapeshwara Temple a.k.a. Harmony Temple (19th century)
A much recent addition to the Khajuraho Temples, the temple was built as a symbol to unite India against the British Rule. The architecture beautifully unites styles from Hindu, Jain, Buddhist, Sikh, and Islamic religions.
The Erotica
The erotic sculptures at the Western Group of Temples in Khajuraho are among the most iconic and discussed features of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. These intricate carvings, found primarily on the outer walls of temples like Kandariya Mahadev and Lakshmana, depict a variety of sensual and intimate scenes. They are seamlessly interwoven with depictions of gods, celestial beings, and scenes of daily life, reflecting a holistic view of existence in ancient Indian philosophy.
Significance of the Erotic Sculptures
- Symbolism: The erotic sculptures are believed to represent the spiritual journey from the physical to the divine. In Indian philosophy, especially Tantra, sexuality is not seen as separate from spirituality but as a pathway to transcendence and union with the divine.
- Integration with Life: These carvings celebrate human emotions, relationships, and the vitality of life. They emphasize that life encompasses both material and spiritual aspects, which coexist harmoniously.
- Outer Walls: Interestingly, the erotic scenes are usually located on the outer walls of the temples and not inside the sanctum, symbolizing the idea of leaving worldly desires behind as one approaches the divine core.
Off to Panna: Ken River Lodge and Raneh Falls
The road to Panna’s Ken River Lodge was unpaved and bumpy, immediately earning Dad’s disapproval. However, the lodge, tucked into a forest with river views, won us over. Lunch at their treehouse restaurant was a highlight — simple yet delicious food, served with jungle vibes.
Raneh Falls, our next stop, was a volcanic marvel. Its multi-hued rocks and canyon-like formations felt otherworldly. Our guide explained that it was India’s only dormant volcano site. Papa, however, was more interested in debating the English name for blue bull (नील गाय).
Jungle Prep and Dinner
Back at the lodge, we prepped for our early morning safari. Dinner was a feast of mutton curry, chapatis, and jungle stories. Mom cleverly tucked Dad into a corner bed to keep his snoring at bay, and I finally got a good night’s sleep.
Day 3: Tigers and Triumphs
Safari Magic
We hit the road at 4 AM, heading to Panna Tiger Reserve’s Hinouta Gate. The morning was chilly, but excitement kept us warm. Initially, tiger sightings seemed unlikely, but then — Kankata (कंकटा), a majestic male tiger, appeared out of nowhere. We watched in awe as he ambushed a sambar deer, crossed the road right in front of us, and disappeared into the bushes.
Everything else — vultures, deers, and even bear claw marks on trees — felt like a bonus after that.
Reflections on the Ride Back
The journey back to Jabalpur was filled with quiet gratitude for a trip well-spent. Ajay, our driver, earned my silent admiration despite Dad’s occasional digs. Mom handed him sweets for his kids as a parting gesture, and I slipped him ₹500 as a thank-you.
This trip wasn’t just about temples and tigers. It was about reliving memories, making new ones, and navigating the quirks of family travel with humor and love.
Pro Tip: Whether it’s negotiating prices at a local vendor or spotting a tiger, travel is about the stories you bring back. And trust me, Khajuraho will give you plenty of them.
For those of you who stuck around until the end, here are some quick facts about Khajuraho & Panna:
Khajuraho
- Number of Temples: Originally 85, but only 25 temples have survived.
- Timeframe: Temples were constructed between the 9th and 12th centuries (over approximately 200 years).
- Height of Kandariya Mahadev Temple: The tallest temple in Khajuraho stands at about 31 meters (102 feet).
Panna
- Panna National Park Area: Spans over 542 square kilometers.
- Tiger Population: As of recent conservation success, Panna National Park hosts over 70 tigers (2023 figures).
- Diamond Mines: Panna’s diamond mining area covers about 22 hectares and is one of India’s most productive diamond regions.
- Distance from Khajuraho: Panna is located approximately 45 kilometers from Khajuraho, a drive of about 1 hour.
$$$ & Handy Links:
- The Lalit Hotel (Hotel In Khajuraho, Best 5 Star Hotel In Khajuraho): INR 3,500 per night per person
- Ken River Lodge (Lodges in Panna | Hotels in Panna National Park): INR 5,000 per night per person
- Archaeological Museum (Archaeological Museum Khajuraho — Google Maps): INR 40 per person
- Aadivart Museum (Cultural Village Aadivart): INR 40 per person for entry + INR 100 for taking pictures
- Western Group of Temples (Temples Of Khajuraho | INDIAN CULTURE): INR 40 per person + INR 1200 (Government approved guide)
- Tiger Reserve & Safari (Panna Tiger Reserve Entry Gate — Google Maps & Home — Panna Jungle Safari): INR 4500 for 3 people in a shared jeep
- Raneh Waterfall (Raneh Water Falls — Google Maps): INR 400 per person
